When you submerge yourself into another culture for longer then a month, you'll be lucky to see beyond the obvious beauty of a country. We have been in Costa Rica for over two months now and we just started to feel the beat of this place, see the light in dark corners, ask questions we wouldn't dare to ask before. It's different now. Almost feels like home. You know when you'll leave you'll be missing those small moments; the breeze, the light, the music, the people, the heat. None of which you can photograph or bring home. I like the fact I don't drive here, I have the pleasure to sit as a passenger and hang off the side door soaking up those feelings, breathing different air. I think then "right now", I want to remember that. Bob Marley playing, the heat scorching on the window, a man waving hello, the wind on my face, a husband next to me, rattling car, cold coconut water on my lap. This will be my Costa Rica.
The other day Matt and I made a wrong turn on the highway and ended up right by the Fire Station. We liked the design of the building so much, we decided to stop and take few pictures. To our surprise couple firemen came out and invited us inside. The building was even more stunning on the inside then on the outside. The light coming in through the windows lit up the red trucks. This place was still with silence. The floors were so clean, the polished concrete was mirror like. We chatted as much as we could with our broken Spanish and we were on our way.
Costa Rican people still amaze me, they seem to have so little but are so generous with what they have. We have been invited inside, helped on the side of the road, at the store, in the parks countless times. They truly feel like they are the happiest people in the world. We experience it everyday.
We went to the store this morning to get picnic supplies for tomorrow's beach excursion and to our surprise the store was packed with people. Since there is no Thanksgiving in Costa Rica we did not expect to see Black Friday here.
We enjoyed watching frantic shoppers picking through the dollar underwear buckets, buying barbies in bulk and drooling over the electronic gizmos.
Happy Black Friday everyone, walk slowly its dangerous out there.
FYI: Maxi Pali is owned and operated by Walmart Corp.
Thanksgiving celebration in Costa Rica begun early around 6 am with roasting cacao beans to make homemade chocolate mousse for tonight's dessert. We did not splurge on an overpriced american born turkey, and went instead, with an organic chicken, then we called turkey all day to make us feel better.
It was a strange sensation as Matt spent most of the day shirtless making phone calls to relatives at home. The kids went to school as usual. Cooking the bird was uneventful, besides that it happened at the neighbors house, since we have no oven. The gang of Ecovilla kids were out playing in the yard. It drizzled for about 15 minutes, a far cry from the storm in the Northeast we have heard caused travel problems.
All but Leo left the dinner table full, he has a loose tooth that I swear he superglued back in when it fell out a month ago. He can barely swallow his own spit now, afraid for it to fall out.
After a great meal we went for a walk towards the river and saw one of the workers with a snake. He found a six feet long terciopelo snake, at our neighbors house, and killed it by throwing large rocks at it. These are highly venomous snakes that you don't want to mess with. Unfortunately we didn't have our camera with us to take a picture, but the mental image is still in my head. After that I found out that a coral snake was found near kids school and the kids were able to see it as well. Its the snake season in Costa Rica. Quite scary if you ask me. Thankful for being alive.
There is something magical in eating out on hot and humid, tropical climate nights. There is a certain beauty in watching sweaty, golden tan faces lingering over big plates of food. Those nights drinks taste so good and refreshing. Hearing the noise of traffic and latin music in the background makes it even more exotic and romantic.
We haven't been able to experience many evenings like this since we bought our car and stopped taking the bus. Dear Dragonfly wasn't safe to drive at night with its poor dim lights, until today. Matt spent the majority of the morning fixing this problem by attaching extra front lamps. Driving in Costa Rica at night is not an easy task with its jungle roads, people crossing and daredevil motorcyclists. At least now we can see them all.
From now on we'll be able to enjoy more sunsets at the beach, experience eating out late into the evening and people watch at the ice cream shops. We are night ready.
Unfortunately we are having difficulties finding good restaurants. This is not France, Greece or Italy, or even Mexico where every small joint serves delicious food. Here you need recommendations with good directions or you will not be happy. This is one of the huge drawbacks of this country, the lack of good flavorful cuisine. You'd think its proximity to Mexico would cast some mexican flair but you'll be wrong. There is not much flavor in Costa Rican rice and beans, but there is plenty of oil and believe me, not the good kind. We did find some good places but they are usually expensive and their locations are in tourist spots which we try to avoid.
Honestly speaking, this sole reason, may be a deciding factor, we will not be staying in Costa Rica for longer. We did think about opening our own restaurant for a split second but our lack of experience would more than likely guarantee its future failure.
Every morning, before the sun makes the walks unbearable, Zosia and I walk to community garden to pick our vegetables for the day. Lately our new favorites are katuk and moringa leaves.
I leave a plate of leaves on the table for quick snacks throughout the day.
In this tropical climate garden there are a lot perennial vegetables that grow continuously and you can eat the fruit, the leaves and the roots.
The garden has annual vegetables like lettuce, celery, onions growing under the geodesic dome. A newly installed irrigation system that uses less water helps the plants survive during the dry season. The gardeners make their own worm tea which is used as organic fertilizer, as well deterring bugs (works for mosquitoes too) from eating the leaves off plants.
Crazy thing happened the other night...I don't even know where to begin the story but it started like that:
We recently have moved to a new house, a treehouse in fact, with a lot of open air screens connecting us even more with surrounding nature. You hear everything; the crickets, the frogs, the birds and most of all the howler monkeys. For the most part, we are used to the jungle sounds and are asleep by 6.30pm.
It was the third night in the new house, Zosia woke up screaming like she was being bitten by a snake or another jungle creature. It was pitch black. Leo started screaming which woke me up and I panicked. I woke up Matt telling him a snake or something was attacking Zosia. In instinct seeing a little monkey "Leo" eating Zosia he let out his own terrifying screams. Wailing his lungs out he desperately tried to separate the kids, thinking one of them is eating the other. All while the kids screamed and clung to each other. I scream, we all scream, definitely not ice cream! We have never screamed like this before. No one wanted to waste time turning on the lights. We were living a jungle nightmare. We screamed like our children will die soon.
Finally I had the courage to turn on the lights. There was no snake. I saw no monkey. What I saw was too scared children hugging each other, afraid of their father to start ripping them apart again.
Zosia broke the silence first: "What happened?"
Seriously??? You tell us "What happened!" we reacted.
We find out she had a bad dream about something crawling on her and woke up shrieking.
Jeez, no one could fall asleep after that. Our hearts were pounding. I might have had a mini heart attack along the way. We were loosing our children to a jungle monster for Christ Sake.
In the morning we had a good chuckle with the neighbors, who heard it all last night. They thought we were being robbed, later realized we probably just saw a big spider or fell down the hole in the floor, neither being true.
This story still makes us laugh, maybe for the shear of craziness that happened or just the thought of Matt ripping the poor kids apart.
Every weekend we try to go to a different beach, to find the perfect spot for when our family comes to visit in February. On the map today Punta Leona.
This morning we woke at 5 am to visit Punta Leona, a white sand beach about an hour away from San Mateo. Sunday is not usually the best day to visit the beach since its the only official day off for Costa Ricans and the beaches fill up with crowds of people quite early. But we had a craving for the beach and with kids in school we only have the weekends to go on fun adventures.
Sometimes it pays off to rise up early...well maybe always. We had the beach to ourselves for a while. Matt and Leo chased the exotic fish with the GoPro camera, while Zosia and I were floating in the ocean watching pelicans eat fish right in front of our eyes. It was a perfect morning. We finally got to see scarlet macaws in action, one item to cross off our Costa Rican bucket list.
After few hours of relaxing and floating in the salty waters we noticed people going left on the beach and not coming back. We decided to follow them to the noisier, more popular part of Punta Leona where the waves are bigger and the sand feels like play dough. Its easy to see why this beach is filled with tourists and locals, the sand is amazing with plenty of shade under the palm trees. The waves are perfect for play and for beginner surfing. Our kids made sand castles and collected a hat full of sea shells to bring home. Matt played in the waves and took hundreds pictures with his go-pro camera of underwater mud. Whatever floats your boat right?
We ended the day with tasty pizza and drove our sandy butts home.
IS THIS BEACH WORTH GOING:
To us, a serious drawback with this beach is the giant all inclusive (or not) resort with apartments, hotels and everything in between. Its not our style of travel but I know having it all in one place ( they even have a canopy zip lines right in their resort) appeals to many.
When you come to Costa Rica for a week this may be a place for you. You can experience monkeys, beaches and snorkeling all in one place. Even better you can sip a martini at the bar while your kids play in the water park ( that in fact does appeal to us !!!) so there you have it, a Punta Leona in a nutshell.
When we sold our 2400 sq. ft home we knew we never wanted to own a house this size again. We have followed a tiny house movement for a while, where you able to devote more time and money to living and not owning. Living in a tiny house in Costa Rica will be a good test of how small can we really go.
Currently we are living in a 400 square ft house that consists of shared kitchen, living and dining room area, small bathroom, an outdoor shower and an upstairs shared bedroom with two queen mattresses and small playroom area.
The house is a cob house, not fully finished yet, the kitchen hasn't been installed and it lacks personal touch but for now it suits our needs. We have very minimal supplies, 4 kitchen plates, 4 bowls, 4 small plates, 4 forks....you get the idea, you want to eat you need to wash your plate.
The house is surrounded by nature so falling asleep takes some time getting used to, and as soon as you get used to the crickets and birds, the tree frog will let out a loud noise putting you right where you started. Zosia has been waking up every night with a notion that something is crawling on her and screaming like crazy. Crawling in bed with us fixes that problem (there is a crazy story about this but that might be another post.)
The house comes with free range bunnies which are impossible to catch but provide a good entertainment for our kids and neighbor kids are the same age as our kids so when the kids are back from school they stay outside most of the time.
We don't have TV and probably won't have one in the future it feels nice not to have that noisy distraction.
We slowly learn how to make it work. I'm happy to say it only takes few minutes a day to keep the house clean. The fact that there is no mirror on the wall provides for its own mini experiment. But its all worth it. The views are magnificent and being surrounded by nature feels so good. Our favorite part of the house is the outdoor shower (the best time to take a shower is in the rain.)
I believe this space is perfect but Matt is not so convinced. It would all depend on our future climate as well.
The original plan was to change location monthly while in Costa Rica, to experience different parts of the country, to breath a different air but fate brought us to la Ecovilla, a sustainable intentional community, where we decided to stay for few months. And the reason being is the happiness of our kids. We have only been here for two weeks but the amount of knowledge, experience and joy we have achieved is the reason we want to stay longer. Leo our 6 year old son who didn't really fall in love with conventional schooling is doing amazing. The school here is a mix of Waldorf and Montessori philosophy so its a lot of hands on and visual learning. His Spanish is getting really good, he tries different foods, the abundance of tropical fruit is right up his alley but he also is eating more vegetables and even the organic meals the ladies make at school (it did take a week for him to try them but something clicked one day.) On the way to school we go through the vegetable gardens and he always tries some new greens, today he ate few spinach leaves and some meringa leaves. If you know him you'll know that this is a miracle. He is making new friends with ease and there is nice boys club for him to be part of. He is fascinated with the nature here especially the reptile world, checking everyday in his book the new creatures that he has seen. By the time we are done with this adventure he will know this book by heart. Since we don't own a tv the kids spent every free moment outside playing with friends amongst the palm trees. Going to the pool at least once a day has improved their swimming skills tenfold.
Zosia is having a lot of fun as well. She has her first ever BFF ,a spunky German/Kenyan girl named Shira. She also has started to loosen up a bit. She no longer requires a swimsuit if we go to the pool or river, underwear will do, no shirt no problem. This would have never happened 2 months ago. She seems really happy here as well.
We still try to leave the community as often as we can to experience the "real Costa Rica" but for now La Ecovilla will be our home.
After 2 weeks in Costa Rica we decided we needed our own mode of transport. Don't get me wrong the buses here are great and we still take them sometimes but in order to see the country you its nice to get lost on backcountry roads. We almost bought a Opel station wagon until we realized parts here were non existent!
I had been searching on Craigslist for a car while we were still in New York. I had seen our "dragonfly" a few times before but decided it was above our budget so I said nothing. A few days later Alicja showed me a cool truck posted on expat facebook group that was for sale, turns out it was the same one I had looked at many times. It was fate that brought us to buy it. This place has a magical spell it casts on those who choose to experience it. The old owner named her "dragonfly", the kids liked the name so we kept it, she also said the car is a "woman". To bring her home I had to take 2 buses cross country, spend the night in a strange Tico house with previous owner then drive all three of us for 6 hours back home and take the previous owner to the airport. She is reliable, and I trust her with our lives. We have friends here who have newer vehicles and they all seem to be constantly broken. The main reason we bought this Land cruiser was because they seem to be the oldest cars here and still work reliably. If something does break or go wrong a
3 year old with a hammer and a screwdriver can fix it. It rattles inside but rides very smooth. I am trying to convince Alicja that we should buy a tent and camping supplies and live out of it on the beach for a month...She's not a fan of that idea!
Its diesel powered and I hope to ship it to Miami and convert it to run on recycled veggie oil when we get home.
I was a professional driver back home and even though I was made aware of the driving conditions it scares the shit out me to drive here. You have to pay attention every second and driving at night is a suicide mission. That being said I have seen bus drivers driving in a downpour with no windshield wipers or defroster going 60 mph downhill and texting. So if they can do it so can you but consider yourself warned.